A wardrobe cut on the bias.
Twelve looks built on a single idea — the seam moved off-centre. Sharp shoulders, a dropped diagonal hem, suiting that refuses to sit straight. Tailored in Italy, made to be worn hard.
The runway lineup, look by look.
Twelve looks, walked in sequence. Read it the way it showed — a tailored opening, a softening through the centre, a hard graphic close. Made-to-order pieces are cut to your measurements in Carpi.
All prices include UK VAT. Made-to-order pieces require a fitting and are produced within 5–7 weeks.
The show, in fragments.
Shot over two days at the atelier and on the runway. Detail studies, full silhouettes, the seam caught mid-walk — the spread that ran in the AW27 press book.
I am not interested in clothes that sit still.
Severance began with a single jacket I could not stop re-cutting. Every time I moved the front seam back to centre, it looked correct — and dead. So I left it off. One centimetre, then three. The lapel followed it, the pocket followed the lapel, and suddenly the whole garment had a direction. That is the collection: tailoring that leans, that has somewhere to be.
People call asymmetry a flourish. To me it is structure. A straight seam hides the body; a diagonal one describes it — where the shoulder drops, where the waist actually is, how a person carries their weight when they walk into a room. AW27 is built on twelve of those diagonals. Nothing decorative. Every cut is doing a job.
I want a NOTCH piece to feel slightly unresolved on the hanger and completely resolved on the body. That tension is the point. Buy the blazer because it makes you stand differently — not because it matches.
How the silhouette is built.
Three things make a NOTCH garment hold its line: a moved seam, a canvas that is floated rather than fused, and a hem cut by hand on the bias. Here is what that means.
The displaced seam
The principal seam runs 3.4 cm off centre and is graded down the body, so the jacket front falls in a slow diagonal. It is set with a 9-stitch-per-inch saddle stitch — strong enough to take the bias load without puckering.
Floated horsehair canvas
No fusing. A two-layer horsehair and wool canvas is pad-stitched by hand and left to float against the shell, so the chest moulds to the wearer over the first dozen wears instead of staying board-flat.
The hand-cut bias hem
Every hem is chalked and scissor-cut on the true bias by one cutter, Renata, who has done it for the house since 2019. The asymmetry is drawn live to each size — never stepped from a single master pattern.
The Severed Blazer.
The piece the whole collection was cut from. A single-button jacket in Italian double-faced wool, with the front seam pulled off-centre so the lapel falls on a diagonal. The shoulder is sharp and clean; the waist is suppressed; the hem drops a few degrees left. It is a tailored jacket that does not stand to attention.
- — Double-faced wool from a 200-year Biella mill, no lining at the body
- — Floated horsehair canvas, hand pad-stitched chest and lapel
- — Functional surgeon's cuffs, corozo buttons in oxblood
One cloth, two faces.
Double-faced wool is two woven layers joined by a hidden binding thread — which means it has no wrong side and needs no lining. We cut the blazer so the diagonal seam exposes a sliver of the inner face: a deeper, warmer charcoal against the cool surface grey. It is a quiet detail you only catch when the jacket moves.
The cloth is 380 grams, dense enough to hold the bias hem flat through a full day of wear, soft enough to break in fast. Woven exclusively for NOTCH in a four-week run each season.
Severance — a film in one take.
Two minutes, one continuous walk through an empty Modena warehouse. No cuts. The camera follows the diagonal hem and never lets go. Scored to a single sustained cello note.
Where to find NOTCH.
The full AW27 collection ships from the NOTCH online shop worldwide. Selected looks are carried by twenty-three concept stores — these are the boutiques stocking Severance.
NOTCH tailoring is cut sharp and close. The asymmetric hem means a jacket reads slightly shorter on the left — this is intentional.
- Tailoring (jackets, coats) Size up if between
- Trousers & skirts True to size
- Knitwear Relaxed — take your size
- Range UK 4 — 20
Free fit consultations by video. Made-to-order pieces are cut to your full measurements.
Notes from the atelier.
Why we moved the seam
The two-year sketchbook trail behind the displaced front seam — and the jacket we threw away to find it.
Four weeks in Biella
Inside the mill run that weaves the double-faced wool — and why the inner face is a degree warmer than the outer.
Casting Severance
Twelve walks, one sustained cello note — Tomás Iglesias on building the runway lineup for AW27.
First to the next collection.
One letter a season — the collection before it ships, made-to-order windows, and the journal. No noise, no discounts.
Before you order.
Sizing & fit — how does NOTCH tailoring run? +
It is cut sharp and close to the body. Jackets and coats are tailored with a clean shoulder and a suppressed waist — if you are between two sizes in tailoring, take the larger. Trousers and skirts run true to size; knitwear is relaxed, so order your usual. Because of the asymmetric hem, a jacket sits a little shorter on the left than the right — that is the design, not a fault. The range is UK 4 to 20, and free video fit consultations are available before you buy.
How do I care for the fabrics? +
Tailoring in double-faced wool and the canvased jackets should be dry-cleaned sparingly — once or twice a season — and rested on a broad wooden hanger between wears; a steam, not a press, keeps the bias hem true. Silk crêpe and georgette pieces are dry-clean only. Knitwear can be hand-washed cold and dried flat. Each garment ships with a printed care card, and our Care Guide covers steaming the asymmetric hem in detail.
What are your shipping & returns terms? +
We ship worldwide from Carpi. UK and EU orders arrive in 2–4 working days; the rest of the world in 5–8, with duties pre-paid to most destinations. Shipping is complimentary on orders over £400. Stock pieces can be returned unworn, with tags, within 21 days for a full refund — return shipping is free within the UK and EU. Made-to-order pieces are cut to your measurements and cannot be returned, though we will always re-fit them.
Is the runway piece available, or made to order? +
Both, depending on the look. Nine of the twelve AW27 looks are produced in a graded size run and ship from stock. Three — Look 03 (The Bias Slip), Look 07 (The Severance Gown) and Look 12 (The Closing Coat-Dress) — are made to order only: each is cut to your full measurements in the Carpi atelier and produced within 5–7 weeks. Made-to-order pieces begin with a video or in-person fitting, which you can book from any product page.
Press & stockist enquiries — who do I contact? +
For press — samples, interviews, the AW27 look book and the campaign film — write to [email protected] and our team will respond within two working days. Buyers and concept stores interested in carrying NOTCH should contact [email protected] for the line sheet and showroom appointments; the Severance collection is shown in Paris during market and by appointment in Milan year-round.
Wear the seam that leans.
Twelve looks. One idea, cut twelve ways. The Severance Collection is in the NOTCH shop and at twenty-three boutiques worldwide.