Sardinillas
$14Baby sardines in Arbequina olive oil. 20–24 to the tin.
Marea packs day-boat seafood from the Cantabrian coast by hand — landed at dawn, cleaned by noon, and sealed in extra-virgin olive oil before the tide turns. Nothing frozen, nothing rushed.
Nine small boats, no trawlers. What they bring in by dawn is on our tables by noon.
Twenty-two packers, scissors and skill. Every fillet is laid in the tin one at a time.
Single-estate Arbequina from Catalonia, and nothing else but a little Atlantic salt.
Each tin serves two as a starter. Free shipping on any box of six.
Baby sardines in Arbequina olive oil. 20–24 to the tin.
Bonito tuna belly — the soft, marbled cut. Pole-and-line.
In a bright escabeche of paprika, vinegar & bay.
Octopus in garlic oil with a whisper of smoked paprika.
Navajas in brine, sweet and snappy. Six to a tin.
Oak-smoked over two hours, then laid in sunflower oil.
The boats radio in their catch at sea so the packers know what's coming. Boxes hit the dock by 7:00.
Each fish is cleaned, skinned and trimmed by hand. A practised packer does maybe nine a minute.
Fillets are arranged so they pour out whole, covered in olive oil, and seamed shut the same afternoon.
Tins age at least three months before they ship. The oil softens, the flavour rounds. Worth the wait.
I keep a shelf of Marea for the nights I can't be bothered to cook. It is, quietly, the best dinner in the house.
We ship across the country in two days, packed in recycled wool. Or come to the harbour shop in Santoña and pick the tins yourself, warm from the cellar.